Ancestors

Written by Sini Tuulia on 2025-01-19 at 16:25

For my sanity I absolutely need to stop working on this sleeve and arm's eye, now. 😆 It no longer deeply offends my sensibilities, doesn't horribly go wrong when I move, and the sleeve head sits alright enough that I can baste it down (it's just on with safety pins here). Then heat-form a bone and slap it on all along the side back seam for good measure. And see about the other sleeve, small gods of sewing preserve me. 😶 (Fitting gifs.)

[#]CinnamonLinenJacket #Sewing

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Written by Sini Tuulia on 2025-01-19 at 16:26

It's all sewn down with machine basting stitches now, so it's not perfect nor can be, but you can see the fit well enough to unpick where necessary etc.

Also I've been using a different colour thread for the gathering stitches, the basting, the stay-stitches and the actual stitching. So I can see what the bloody hell line of sewing I'm actually looking at!

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Written by Alistair K on 2025-01-19 at 21:04

@sinituulia I have not made a jacket for years for precisely this reason. Easing sleeve caps into armscyes that must be smaller than the cap going in always took me at least four tries.

I never figured out a good way to think about it. The closest I got is that the excess has to be distributed evenly around the scye but I have a strong hunch that this is not a sufficient understanding.

I also started wondering whether gigantic puffs were invented to turn the problem into its own solution.

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Written by Sini Tuulia on 2025-01-19 at 21:18

@libroraptor Four isn't all that many! If you have a decent pattern it's not the worst. Though working with 100% wool does also help, and you don't really find that so often these days.

The distribution depends on the shape of both sleeve and scye, but if they somewhat match, and the rotation is correct you can fully just squeeze and ease it in there. 😆

I've got two different arms and scyes so the same thing doesn't work, in theory very gathered sleeves are easier to fit because the mass of the puff hides a lot of sins... As long as the arm's eye is correct!

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Written by Wonderdog on 2025-01-20 at 11:05

@sinituulia @libroraptor I like the gathering and distribution and matching part! Remember the trend around the time of Princes Di’s wedding dress, and continuing through? Those enormous poofy sleeves? (Everything always comes around again in fashion, LOL!) I had a lot of friends getting married in the late 80s and through the early 90s. So. Many. Poofy. Sleeves. Of various poofiness. In tricky fabrics. I never want to touch a polyester satin in tartan again. Shiny fabric shows up mistakes, but tartan? 😬

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Written by Sini Tuulia on 2025-01-20 at 11:34

@caity @libroraptor I'm too young to really remember Princess Di but have seen sufficient photos of all the dresses, in people's homes and such. 😄 All the shapes were something they already did in the 1890s and some from 1830 as well, it's wild how it goes around.

Polyester satin in theory looks and feels nice for about three seconds until you have to wear it or work with it. 😆 Never again, if I can help it.

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Toot

Written by Alistair K on 2025-01-20 at 23:35

@sinituulia @caity I'm old enough to remember Diana. But also an historian so I remember puffy and slashed sleeves and smocking from centuries ago. I've long been wanting to try these on neckties but I left my neckties-wearing job some years ago. Upholstery fabrics seem to have all the right ideas for this but at too large a scale for neckties, and too heavy, so it'll be handwork. And maybe just to hang on the wall. Or for my son to wear if he heads off to university.

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Descendants

Written by Sini Tuulia on 2025-01-21 at 14:53

@libroraptor @caity I am quite fond of the historical brocades they sell on Sartor Bohemia! I have absolutely no real use for them (I have some I got on sale for a thicker lining, but haven't used it yet) but I keep looking at them like "that would be a nice tie that I would never use" 😆

Their Bohemian linen, as in the region not the style, is also wonderful but it's never available in all colours.

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Written by Alistair K on 2025-01-21 at 23:10

@sinituulia I have just looked ... those brocades are indeed very nice. This is the kind of thing that I always find missing from museum gift shops – they only sell stuff that I would never find a use for. It's a widespread complaint that no one has found a solution for.

I was doing something with astrolabes to make practical things that'd appeal also to men, but haven't been able to work on that for a few years. I should pick it up again.

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