Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. I ended up going with fastmail. Migadu was a really good looking alternative, but they unfortunately do not have a web or mobile app. Totally legit and understandable, but I need those things and don't have the bandwidth for another rabbit hole right now.
The transition was surprisingly smooth: fastmail imported absolutely everything down to my custom nested labels. I was expecting to spend the whole afternoon on this and it took less than an hour.
Fastmail also actually costs less than half of what I was paying for gmail workspace, doesn't spy on me and doesn't have AI.
Good on you #fastmail
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