Hm
So
An AFM / STM isn't that hard to build, right?
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Dang why does everything have such a high CTE
50 nm per K in Z.... maybe that can be compensated with the right materials to even out... kinda.
Maybe I just build everything out of fused silica and invar
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Ohhh I can build it in a way that the CTEs cancel each other out perfectly(ish)
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This looks... ok?
Provided I can cut the glass, that V-Groove is going to be fun. I have an idea or two.
Tests to be done!
The Piezo (why does fusion render brass blue??) does X/Y/Z for the actual raster, the micrometer provides rough (maybe too rough?) Z travel and the kinematic coupling between both plates in combination with the right material choices should cancel out most of my thermal expansion to keep it all stable.
Piezo - Glass rod - Needle are one replacable assembly.
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The basic kinematic coupling is already soooo satisfying to play with!
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Hmmmnice.
It works as expected, and the kinematics reduce the mvement by a factor of ~3, so every Division moves the center by ~3 um.
Should be just about ok, meaning that the piezo can do the rest of the Z travel.
Issue is that I now need to constrain the ball on the micrometer, which means that I either have to grind a cup in the micrometer shaft or buy a different micrometer with a rounded tip to take the ball out entirely.
...maybe I should build a dremel tool mount for the lathe.
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This feels like it shouldn't work as well as it does
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This will be very interesting under the SEM
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Well that's disappointing, the tungsten has cracked on most of them, and the tip radii are on the order of a few 100 nm
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Just missing a few milling steps on the other side (two V-Grooves for the balls) and then I can try and case harden this thing!
Worst part was getting the blanks round, the lasercut edge was hard enough to ruin a few inserts :(
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Workholding adventures!
I've had a whoopsie or two, but it's functional, doesn't have to be pretty 😉
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And now we're onto the carburizing step!
Takes tiiiime
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Woohoo!
It came out really well, isn't really distorted (nothing to be felt, didn't measure), and the surface finish didn't suffer.
But the real test is to do another heat treatment to harden it, that will reveal if it actually worked!
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Aww yis, the other parts are coming together as well!
I'm really looking forward to machining the glass, I've never done anything like that.
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...is there any way to non-destructively test for borosilicate?
The glass was sold as such, but the green tint really reminds me of recycled or cheap soda-lime with iron contamination.
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@gigabecquerel Test optical constants like transmission behaviour or refraktive index?
https://refractiveindex.info/?shelf=glass&book=SCHOTT-BK&page=BK7G18
This should give a hint.
EDX or XPS also give compositions. But who has this. (Me at work, but XPS is currently down.)
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@M Index is a good idea, I should see if I can cobble something together. Not sure how much boro and soda differ, but it will be a number.
EDX is something that I technically have, but afaik my detector doesn't go down to boron...
Another idea I just had is to measure the CTE somehow, after all that's why I wanted boro im the first place
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@gigabecquerel @M Will it pick up calcium or sodium? You should be able to check against common formulations and rule out several even if you can't see the boron.
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@gigabecquerel See the reference I gave you.
Check how much n differ from both.
Might be that you can even check with a laser pointer and some precise diffraction measurement.
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@gigabecquerel I've known people do heat shock tests, which isn't conclusive but check if it is good enough. A lot of people suggest it is close to index of refraction of mineral oil, but soda lime glass isn't that different of an index. Borosilicate glass tends to be less dense than other common glasses, but you would need decent previous to tease that out.
In a lot of places, unlabeled glass is as good as trash...
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