Ancestors

Written by Simonoid on 2025-01-19 at 06:19

Fellow nerds I have a new obsession and it is driving me insane!

I got a second hand Creality cr-10s pro.

It came with some clogged pla. I got this.

I cleared the clogged nozzle with the help of YouTube university.

Next was levelling the bed.

I manually adjusted the gantry and then each z axis both manually and via the touch screen. Using a piece of paper for clearance.

Test print time! It fails to adhere to bed and gums to the nozzle 😔

I couldn't let it go and tried again a few...more than a few times.

If anyone has some time for some one on one via video call or if you are near Western Melbourne.

I will do my best to show my appreciation with coffee/beer/renumeration ❤️

[#]3dprinting #3dfail #help

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Written by Sebastian Lauwers on 2025-01-19 at 07:45

@simonoid Hey! So I’ve had this printer for many years, however it took me nearly a year to get consistent results with it. The things I changed:

• mirror from IKEA instead of the very bad bed

• BLtouch probe instead of the very inconsistent ABL probe that came with the printer.

The ABL probe sadly will be all over the place every time you run ABL. Sometimes it will crater the nozzle into the bed surface, sometimes it will hover awkwardly 1.5mm above the bed.

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Toot

Written by Sebastian Lauwers on 2025-01-19 at 07:51

@simonoid Sadly this printer has been gathering dust in my study for a very long time. It’s not a good printer, it’s slow and unreliable.

If I didn’t have a choice and I had to use it, here’s what I would do:

• Change the ABL probe

• Try to change the bed to some sort of magnetic PEI, somehow

• Remove the bed springs and make it fixed (you don’t need springs if you have ABL, it just introduces wobble/flex/print artefacts)

• Install klipper

• change the fans to make it less of a screamer

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Descendants

Written by Sebastian Lauwers on 2025-01-19 at 07:55

@simonoid I think that could make it relatively solid. However, you could go further:

• change to an all-metal hotend. The Teflon tube inside the hotend will deteriorate. We’re also now very aware of the bad things that happen when you heat up Teflon continuously. It’s not good for your health.

• change to direct drive extruder. Bowden setups are great if you’re building a delta, but they really have no reason to exist on a massive i3 like this.

• switch to a .6mm nozzle

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Written by Simonoid on 2025-01-19 at 08:47

@teotwaki all great suggestions!

There is a magnetic flex bed for about 35aud.

And whilst I am not super sure about removing the springs, I've seen you can get some stiffer ones for cheap.

I am curious to try something like octoprint for monitoring and wireless control.

I'm considering I got this for free, and this is likely a stepping stone for the hobbies and more projects along the line 🥰

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Written by Sebastian Lauwers on 2025-01-19 at 08:50

@simonoid Maybe you could also get fixed standoffs instead of stiffer springs? Just copper or brass hardware store pipe should do. You could get slightly longer and then sand them to get an almost perfectly level bed, and then let the ABL handle the imperfections of the bed surface...

Remember that if you change the bed surface, you'll most likely need a different ABL probe. That's why I recommend the BLTouch (or potentially a clone if going for cheap). Works on all surfaces.

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Written by Andre on 2025-01-19 at 11:19

@simonoid @teotwaki Octoprint is almost a must-have for printers that don't have their own network connectivity.

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Written by Sebastian Lauwers on 2025-01-19 at 12:14

@PCOWandre @simonoid This being said, if you’re going to go with octoprint, you might almost just go ahead and go with Klipper. At least you get the benefit of massively greater speed.

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