Ancestors

Written by Yvan on 2025-01-18 at 11:57

Welcome to the USB device hospital...

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Toot

Written by Yvan on 2025-01-18 at 12:09

First we strip back a bit of solder mask to expose the one non-exposed contact we need, which is the CC1 line, there's a useful through-hole on the track which makes for a robust spot to do this. Unfortunately the original contact ripped off with the USB connector, but TBH they're too fine and close together for my soldering skills anyway.

Then we tin our wires, thankful that this cable seems to contain actual copper wire rather than ally.

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Descendants

Written by Yvan on 2025-01-18 at 12:17

Tin the contacts too, then solder on the wires!

Not too bad with the fine wires there for a rusty old solderer. These days I have to take my glasses off to solder... I did get some "bifocal" style glasses last year, but they turn out to be a bit of a bust really. Still have to take the glasses off for any close work. (Give it time and no doubt I'll have to put a different pair of glasses on lol.)

Bit of a bodge with the VBUS and GND wires on the other side. They're thicker wires. I'm lucky that they could be soldered to the other side of the board, and that the middle pins next to the VBUS contacts on that site are just floating contacts, AND that this is a very low power device so just tacking the wires onto one small point is totally fine.

Cut the VBUS cable a little short too, had a bit of a wire-stripping oopsie... so the cable is pulled to one side. I can live with that.

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Written by Yvan on 2025-01-18 at 12:22

Test it: FRANKENMIC LIVES!!!

Did test a recording too, all good with sound coming in via the wireless mic.

If anyone wonders: no, the USB-C socket to the narrow edge doesn't have any data connection. It seems to be purely a pass-through for power. Only the male connector that ripped off the long edge when I dropped the phone the other day is connected to the "brains" of the board.

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Written by Yvan on 2025-01-18 at 12:33

This is the point that I realise, as is ever the case, that I should have threaded some more suitable heat-shrink onto the cable before soldering it. Anyway, have some that just fits over the USB-C connector... it'll do. Bit of hot-glue to the wires for strain-relief, bit more hot glue, squeeze on the case, squirt in some more hot glue, bit of hot glue in the heat-shrink, hit it with the hot air gun... it'll do! It's not pretty, but it works!

You too can do this. I am not an electrical engineer, merely a rather amateur hobbyist.

[#]Repair your things! :)

If you don't have the tools find yourself a friendly #RepairCafe or #MakeSpace

Saves me spending £16 on another dodgy mic, and I feel less bad about NOT taking up the dodgy seller on their £30 voucher for a 5-star Amazon review now: https://toot.ale.gd/@yvan/113843337766109815

Hopefully it lasts me a while longer.

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