Yamz from my local discord asks:
does anyone have tips for bruised toes from ice climbing with poor fitting boots bc ppl r saying to drain it with a hot needle 🥲
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So excited to announce that the OpenBeta mobile app for android is available to download on the google play store! A huge thanks to our many volunteers who worked on this important part of Our project :tada:
We are still in beta testing mode looking for app feedback- provide any improvements via the play store or DM us!
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Would you fix your own shoes with this DIY shoe repair kit? 😝
Supposedly it is for when you wear away part of the rand with foot dragging, or poke a hole in the rubber on sharp rock.
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I guess anywhere else but a gym that's just called going in direct into a bolt.
Definitely weird in a gym context though haha
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So this happened today.
I fell off a route, rested a bit, and made my way back up. The rope was still under tension, and as I moved up and over, my belay loop brushed past the draw and clipped into it 🤣
Sounded like someone else clipping a draw so I didn't think twice about it, until I became stuck on the wall 😳
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Vichy97 published a new alpha version of the OpenBeta app, with these changes!
Ok the new version is available for download! To know if you are on the right version, it's 1.0.0-alpha04. Some of the changes include
And a ton small ui fixes and improvements. Too many to list here.
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Perry writes:
I'm currently writing the KaiOS app again, it is now possible to search for climbing areas nearby, the search is done in the map view, it is started with the enter key. I have deliberately refrained from starting a new search when the user moves the map, because in the KaiOS devices excessive external requests fill up the RAM and freeze the system.
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Wondering if anyone has suggestions on climbing guides in Oahu, Hawaii.
Looking to take a trip there with the wife (sans kids!) and hoping to try a multi pitch or two on volcanic rock!
(Typical beta for this would be to hit up a local group on Facebook but bleeeeecchhh, only if I absolutely have to...)
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Not sure how active the rope solo scene is on fedi, but I figure I'd ask.
There's been quite a bit of discussion over the years about various systems, but the modern consensus seems to be to use two progress capture devices on a single (or dual) fixed line, with one suspended higher than the other via use of a neck strap or chest harness.
By far (at least in North America) the consensus seems to be to use the Petzl Microtraxion.
The Edelrid Spoc seems to be a good alternative, is both lighter and cheaper, and is also mentioned occasionally in discussions about TRS.
Brent Barghahn is seen in this photo in a double-Spoc setup:
Any potential problems I should be considering?
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Just test-drove the topo editor that @bohwaz@mamot.fr fixed up, and it's working great, nice work!!
Scaling is a bit off; I had to scale up pretty much everything (lines, marks, text) by 200-300%, but that's due to images being so huge nowadays.
Looking forward to updating my photos of The Crag Next Door with proper topos!
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Do you rock climb, and also use an Android device? Do you want to try an alpha to get some beta? (har har har)
... via the OpenBeta Discord... we're seeking Android users to test drive the upcoming alpha release of the OpenBeta mobile app:
I'm planning on making an internal Alpha release this week. If you have an Android device and would like to be included in this, please DM me your email so I can opt you in. We need at least 20 alpha testers to be eligible for public release so I encourage everyone to test the Alpha build if they can! — Vichy79
If you're interested, simply DM Vichy79 on Discord, or reply here and I will pass on the message!
In the meantime, here's a screenshot of what the image viewer looks like in-app. Pretty slick!
You can also join our OpenBeta Discord here.
P.S. Did you know we just did a volunteer spotlight on Vincent? Check it out!
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Vichy97 provided this update on the Discord #mobile-dev channel yesterday!
Another day, another feature. The main items remaining before release are the profile screen, the about screen (to include open betas mission and the ability to leave feedback or report bugs), the ability to tick climbs and upload images (other editing will come in a future release), and deeplinks. Other than those items, just styling and bug fixes/UI improvements. Getting close to a release!
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A new favourite in the area, Bottle Glass has got some nice unpolished moderates away from the crowds at the main wall.
All you have to put up with is a floor covered in glass shards from the practices of local drunks, hence the name.
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https://github.com/OpenBeta/open-tacos/issues/389 seems to suggest I need to email @viet about this to get some API keys
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You, too, can climb in pink shoes.
https://www.climbersagainstcancer.org/shop/scarpa-drago-limited-cac-edition/
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Looks like there's a new resoler in town for us Canucks.
Based out of Hamilton, Ontario, turnaround time of 4 weeks!
Any resole here usually goes to Mike Doody and his excellent team at Ontario Resoles. Nice to have some competition regardless.
Anyone know if they do no-edge? Heh.
https://www.instagram.com/reviveresoles/
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Does your gear have the "BlueSign approved" label on it?
My local gear shop put out an article about what it actually means.
https://www.mec.ca/en/article/bluesign-spotlight-at-mec
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My local gym is redoing their bouldering mats. Here's what that look like!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu5VTbrz8ow&t=1
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Today I was supposed to host an informal skills clinic with a climber new to the outdoors, and teach them the basics of anchor cleaning. They ended up rescheduling, so I had some time to waste.
We're usually taught to clip draws with the gate facing away from the direction of the next bolt/pro, but if you're clipping a hanger (as opposed to a glue-in), could the biner rotate, and have the gate opened by the bolt itself?
I tried with an extendable draw I had, and it took some doing, but it was definitely possible. Rope movement can make a draw do funny things, and extendable draws in particular love to flip orientation. Lots of seemingly impossible things have happened to unattended protection!
This doesn't really apply to local crags here since bolts here are glue-ins, with exception of the anchor, but food for thought.
All the same it seems the advice to clip with the gate facing away from direction of travel still seems to supercede this niche edge case.
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